Hey friends! If you’re looking to give your bathroom an upgraded, spa-like feel, installing tile is one of the most popular ways to achieve that. With their durability and water-resistance, tiles are the perfect material to withstand the moisture and wear-and-tear of a bathroom. Plus, they come in a gorgeous array of styles to match any design aesthetic!
But tiling a bathroom can seem intimidating, especially when you have to tile around existing features like a tub. Trying to work that bottom row of tile around the lip of a tub so it looks seamless can be tricky! Not to worry though, with some handy preparation and the right techniques, you can totally tile beautifully around that tub.
Planning Your Tile Layout
When taking on a tiling project, having a well-thought-out plan is crucial before you start sticking those tiles to the wall. You’ll want to first measure the dimensions of your tub and walls to calculate how many tiles you’ll need. Account for that lip at the bottom too!
Here are some tips on marking a layout that will have your tiles looking sharp:
- Measure from the top of the tub lip up to where you want the tile to end. Divide this height in half to mark your center horizontal line.
- Determine if you’ll need to adjust this center line to avoid super skinny sliver tiles at the top or bottom.
- Calculate how many full tiles will fit from the center line down to the tub lip. Adjust the line if needed to allow for full tiles.
- Use a level to draw a laser straight horizontal line at your mark.
- Similarly, find and mark the midpoint on the width of the wall to draw your plum vertical center line.
You want to avoid having tile fragments that are too narrow. They can crack and come loose over time. It’s worth tweaking your layout lines so you can maximize those sturdy full tiles!
Preparing the Substrate
Before any tile goes up, you need to have a sound substrate – the backerboard or surface that the tile gets adhered to. When waterproofing a tub surround, this preparation is crucial! Moisture getting in behind the tile is what leads to ugly mold or mildew.
Here are some tips for getting that substrate prepped for success:
- Ensure the surface is clean, dry and stable enough to support the tile long-term.
- On walls with wood or metal studs, install cement backerboard and waterproofing membranes like plastic sheeting or roofing felt paper.
- Make sure your backerboard seams are supported by studs or furring strips. Attach with backerboard screws.
- Fill the seams between backerboard sheets with thinset mortar, then embed alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh tape. This seals and reinforces the seams.
- Apply a thin skim coat of thinset over the entire surface to give the tiles the best adhesion.
Taking the time to start with a flat, water-tight substrate will give you awesome peace of mind that your tile won’t loosen or leak!
Installing the Bottom Row of Tiles
Now comes the moment of truth – installing that first row of tile around the tub lip. This part sets the tone for the rest of the job, so taking it slow and steady is key here.
Follow these tips when tiling around the tub:
- Use a notched trowel to apply a layer of thinset mortar onto the lowest portion of the wall, about 2-3 square feet at a time.
- If the tub lip is level, start with a full tile resting on it. If not level, make your starting row at least 3/4″ above the highest point of the lip.
- Check that your bottom tiles are perfectly level using spacer wedges to adjust as needed. This makes the rest of the job easier!
- As you work upwards, use plastic spacers to maintain even grout line spacing. Consistency is what gives tilework a pro look!
Stay patient, get that first row perfectly aligned, and you’ll be tiling like a boss in no time!
Working Up the Wall
Once you move upwards from that first row, get into a groove by following a stepped pattern with the tiles. Think brickwork layers! Cover a section at a time with thinset adhesive and stick tiles onto the open area.
A few tips as you make your way up:
- Set full tiles only in each course as you work upwards. Leave gaps for any partial tiles.
- Use the score and snap method with a tile cutter for straight cuts around niches, corners or fixtures.
- Make precision cuts like outlets or valves by tracing and nipping surrounding tiles. A carbide-tipped cutter is great for trimming ceramic or porcelain.
- For protrusions like showerheads or tub spouts, drill access holes with a diamond-grit hole saw bit.
- Every 10 rows or so, check your level lines to ensure tiles don’t creep off alignment.
Take your time with cutting and fitting those edge tiles. Watching YouTube tutorials can be handy for picking up pro tile cutting tricks!
Grouting and Finishing
You’re so close to completion! Once all whole and cut tiles are firmly adhered, it’s time to pull together the look with grout. This powder mixes with water for a smooth, malleable texture that gets pushed into the joints. It unifies the grid and allows for subtle alignment adjustments.
Here’s the deal on flawless grouting:
- Allow the tile mastic to fully cure as the manufacturer recommends before grouting. This keeps tiles stuck tight.
- Sanded grout is best for joints wider than 1/8”. It resists cracking from shrinkage as it dries.
- Use a rubber grout float to force grout diagonally across the tiles, pressing it deeply into joints.
- Let it cure slightly as package directs, then hold a damp grout sponge flat to smooth joints and clean excess off tile faces.
- Once fully dried, seal the grout so moisture doesn’t penetrate the porous surface over time.
Lastly, finish it off with some polished details like:
- Gleaming bullnose tiles topping side edges
- Sleek metal or ceramic wall tile trim
- Silicone caulk sealing the joint between tile and tub
Once all the finishing touches are lovingly applied, stand back and admire your kickass DIY tiling skills!
Tips to Avoid Failures
I always like to wrap things up with some troubleshooting wisdom in case any problems pop up! Even skilled tilers run into the occasional issue, so here are some tips to avoid total bathroom tiling failures:
- Thoroughly reinforce backerboard joints and seams to prevent cracks from developing.
- Waterproof all joints between tub/shower and walls with roofing plies and adhesive sealant. Don’t allow moisture penetration!
- Carefully follow manufacturer’s guidelines for recommended thinset mortar thickness and open time before drying.
- Between tile courses, frequently check level lines and use spacers to realign any slippage.
- If the thinset skin forms while working, don’t add water which can weaken it. Instead, scrape off gummy layer and apply fresh.
Take things slow, double check your work, and don’t be shy about watching online tutorials to pick up pro tips! With some dedication and these bathroom tiling tricks, you’ll have a safe, water-tight ceramic or porcelain masterpiece in no time.
Now get to tiling, my friends! 😊